This is my second Geisha from Manhattan Coffee Roasters so I was pretty excited mainly because the first was and still is one of the best coffees I have ever tasted. With that I probably put too much anticipation on Pino Alto by Manhattan Coffee Roasters which is considered ‘World Class’ on its label.
Manhattan Coffee Roasters have built a reputation (and shelves full of trophies) for sourcing and roasting some of the best coffee in Europe, and this Colombian Geisha proves exactly why.
To see my first review of Manhattan check it out: here.
Quick Look
- Roaster: Manhattan Coffee Roasters, Rotterdam
- Origin: Pino Alto, Colombia (Producer: José Giraldo)
- Process: Natural
- Varietal: Geisha
- Flavour Notes: Mango, peach, white tea
- Roast Profile: Light
- Brew Method: Chemex
- Perfect For: Slow Saturday mornings, Geisha nerds, and anyone who wants to spend loads of money on magic beans
Who’s Behind the Beans?
Manhattan Coffee Roasters are based in Rotterdam, but their reputation is global. Founded by roasting royalty Ben Morrow and Esther Maasdam, the team obsesses over details: perfect sourcing, respectful roasting, and delivering cups that honour every bean’s origin.
Pino Alto comes from José Giraldo’s farm, Finca Las Marias in Pijao, Colombia. At serious altitude, with serious attention to processing, José has produced a Geisha that doesn’t just live up to the name it reminds you why the Geisha varietal became world-famous in the first place.
What is Geisha Coffee from Colombia?
Geisha coffee (sometimes spelled Gesha) is one of the most famous and expensive coffee varietals in the world known for its delicate, floral, tea-like flavours and luxurious sweetness. Apparently.
It originated in Ethiopia, near the town of Gesha, but the variety really exploded onto the global coffee scene when it was cultivated in Panama in the early 2000s where it started winning every major coffee competition and auction.
Colombia’s Geisha coffees are now recognised as some of the best examples outside of Panama, especially in regions like:
- Pijao (where Pino Alto is from)
- Huila
- Caldas
According to coffee folk, in Colombia, Geisha typically tastes like:
- Tropical fruits (mango, passionfruit, stone fruits)
- Delicate florals (jasmine, honeysuckle)
- Crisp acidity (like white wine)
- Silky, tea-like mouthfeel. Not sure I have had a silk tea before but sure I’ll see.
Why Colombian Geisha is so good:
- High altitudes (often 1,800–2,200m) slow down the coffee’s development, building more complexity.
- Careful natural or washed processing preserves the clarity and sparkling acidity.
- Producers like José Giraldo have fine-tuned fermentation methods to enhance the natural fruity and floral profile without overpowering it.
In short:
Colombian Geisha delivers the elegance and clarity people love about this varietal but often with a bit more tropical sweetness compared to Panamanian versions.
First Impressions of Pino Alto by Manhattan Coffee Roasters
It looks so slick. Black and gold are definitely a strong colour way matched with the high information card wrapped around it. I probably would have picked it up on its looks alone. The second you tear open the bag, you’re hit with a wall of tropical sweetness. It’s vibrant ripe mango, floral white tea, even a little honeysuckle hidden at the edges.
Ground medium-fine and brewed with my favourite Chemex the Pino Alto blooms instantly, filling the kitchen with soft fruit and that tell-tale Geisha perfume. It’s clear from the start: this coffee’s got layers. Honestly the aromas hit straight out of the gate.
Tasting Notes
First sip? Bright and juicy like a mango sorbet melted into white lemonade.
There’s peach nectar dancing through the mid-palate, with a sparkling acidity that reminds you more of white wine than anything roasted.
Second sip? More structure. A delicate sweetness, floral but never perfumy.
The natural process shows up clean and controlled — giving all that fruit without veering funky or messy.
Finish?
Long, crisp, slightly drying like the finish of a crisp ice cold Riesling. You’ll be chasing the memory of it around your mouth long after the cup’s empty.
Brewing Notes
Recipe:
30g coffee to 500g water
92°C water
- 3:25 total brew time
- Medium-fine grind
Lower temperature kept the white tea notes intact without muting the fruit.
I find with larger dose I run the risk of a longer brew and then risk flattening the acidity so stick around 3:30 was my goal time to try and catch all those bright tropical layers.
I poured this into one of my mugs I got from the Sahara Desert in Morocco, which is small and really allowed me time with each sip. Push it felt quality in my hand which I thought these beans may deserve.
Coffee Fact File
Origin:
- Country: Colombia
- Region: Pijao, Quindío
- Farm: Finca Las Marias
- Producer: José Giraldo
Variety: Geisha
Altitude: 1,950 metres above sea level
Processing Method:
Natural Processed (Dry processed)
- Cherries are dried whole, allowing natural sugars and fruit flavours to absorb into the bean.
Final Thoughts
Pino Alto by Manhattan Coffee Roasters isn’t a bruiser. It doesn’t try to overwhelm you.
Instead, it charms you with clarity, elegance, and just enough tropical swagger to remind you that coffee, at its best, is pure magic. Although I must admit this was my third brew with this as I really struggled to unpack a lot of the magic in these beans at first. I do find these world class beans can run a fine line between wonderful and what feels like a total waste of money. When you’re buying a bag of world-class beans, a little homework goes a long way. True beauty often comes with a bit of a learning curve but get it right, and the magic hits from the very first cup.
One that pulls you back in for second, third, fourth sips not because you missed anything, but because you don’t want to miss a thing.
If you’re chasing the best specialty coffee available in Europe right now, this is the level you should be tasting.
Check out more of my coffee reviews here: Collins Coffee Corner.