There are few places in Ireland that I enjoy going back to like the Gap of Dunloe. Hiking in Ireland over the past few years I haven’t returned to a place like this as much, I’ve cycled it, run it, and I’ve walked it more than ten times, and counting. And truthfully? No two days have ever been the same.
One morning, it’s the silence of the Irish morning dawn broken only by a stream’s gentle flow or the sheep baAAing away. Another day, it’s waterfalls tumbling from the crags, horses ripping grass along the ridges, or the rare stillness of being the only one out there. Then, there are days like my last visit, soaked to the skin, nearly blown sideways by the wind, and still grinning ear to ear.
That’s the magic of the Gap of Dunloe. It offers something new every single time. A different light. A shifting mood. A fresh perspective.
My go-to route? I always start at the car park by Kate Kearney’s Cottage, soak in the scenery as I walk the winding 11km trail through the valley, and then hop on a boat back to Killarney from Lord Brandon’s Cottage a journey across the lakes and rivers that is just as unforgettable as the walk itself.
So here’s my advice: go do it. Add the Gap of Dunloe to your Irish adventure. You won’t regret a single step.
About The Gap of Dunloe
The Gap of Dunloe is a breathtaking glacial mountain pass in County Kerry carved during the last Ice Age about 25,000 years ago, slicing dramatic cliffs between the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and Purple Mountains. It stretches about 11 km between Kate Kearney’s Cottage and Black Valley. The path winds past five lakes Lough Coosaun, Black Lake, Cushnavally, Auger, and Black Lough, all linked by the River Loe.
The name: Gap of Dunloe or in Irish: Bearna an Choimín literally means gap of the little hollow. “Dunloe” itself is thought to derive from the Irish Dún Lóich meaning Lóich’s Fort possibly referring to an ancient fortification in the area or a chieftain’s dwelling long lost to time.
How Was the Road Through the Gap of Dunloe Made?
Shockingly, the road that winds through the Gap was never designed for modern traffic (which you will quickly come to realise) and that’s part of its charm…
It was originally a rough track built for horse-drawn carts and local travel. It’s likely that it evolved naturally over centuries as farmers and locals traversed the land between villages and grazing areas. Today, cars are strongly discouraged (and in some cases restricted maybe just by the locals), which keeps the path more peaceful and true to its origins. However you will often share the road these days with the sheep, hikers and jaunting carts (horse and carts) and cyclists who can fly through the Gap so it is best to stay alert.
However, what makes it special is that the road has remained largely unchanged it twists and climbs through dramatic stone formations, across stone bridges like the famous “Wishing Bridge”, and along the “Black Valley,” one of the last places in Ireland to receive electricity.
How Long Does hiking The Gap Of Dunloe Take?
The Gap of Dunloe hike is about 11 km (7 miles) one-way and honestly it should take the average fit walker less than 2 hours. That includes a few stops. For those who aren’t as fit 3 hours should be the absolute maximum in my experience.
Also the elevation gain is about 850feet according to my Garmin & Strava records. All of the include is in the first valley before you reach the Black Valley sign (also the top).
This is all paved road however with tarmac so you can take a sigh of relief it is smooth unlike the Cliffs of Moher Doolin Cliff Walk.
1. Starting at Kate Kearney’s Cottage
Your journey begins here, amid the tranquil embrace of ancient stone walls and the iconic pub atmosphere. This traditional 18th-century inn kicks off the route, named after the beloved local figure Kate Kearney. It’s a charming stop to grab a coffee, fill up on snacks, and soak in the folklore of the Gap before setting off. Or if anyone has pulled out last minute you can grab a lock of pints here too. This doesn’t open early (typically when I set off) but the Coffee Pot is usually open and a nice spot to get stocked.
There is also the last official toilet stop here before the walk so, use this information as you wish.
2. The Lakes & Wishing Bridge
Shortly after setting off from Kate Kearney’s Cottage, the winding path leads you through a series of glacial lakes each one quietly nestled between rugged peaks and mossy stone. These lakes are part of what makes the Gap of Dunloe so unforgettable.
As you hike south to north, here’s the order of the five lakes you’ll pass:
- Coosaun Lough – Between Coosaun Lough and Black Lake, you’ll cross the most iconic spot in the Gap: The Wishing Bridge.
- Black Lake (Loch Dubh)
- Cushnavally Lake
- Auger Lake
- Black Lough (a second, smaller one before Lord Brandon’s)
The Wishing Bridge: Locals say if you pause and make a wish while standing on the bridge, it just might come true especially if it’s your first time crossing. The story is part folklore, part fairytale, but when the mist hugs the valley and a horse-drawn cart quietly passes, you’ll feel the magic.
The Wishing Bridge is built of rough-hewn stone and arches gently over a stream (sometimes fast and heavy sometimes slow and dry) that links the first two lakes. The bridge has stood for generations, a quiet witness to centuries of pilgrims, poets, and wanderers making their way through this epic pass.
From here, the valley opens wider.
By this point, you’re fully in the embrace of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks to your west and the Purple Mountain Range to the east. Each step feels like you’re walking through a living, breathing postcard.
Stay on the Trail — Leave No Trace
3. Reaching the Top & Finding Lord Brandons Cottage
After winding between ancient stone bolders and glacial lakes, you’ll know you’ve reached the top of the Gap of Dunloe when you spot the sign saying Welcome to the Black Valley. It’s a simple carved stone carving but for tired legs and soaked jackets, it feels like a victory flag. Why? Because you’re at the highest point, and from here on out: it’s all downhill. YEOOOOOOOooooo!!!!!
Take a second. Breathe in the air. Maybe sip the rest of that coffee or water bottle you packed. This is the Gap at its wildest and most remote, with jagged peaks one side rising around you, smooth rolling hills the other and the silence so pure you can hear your thoughts echo.
From the top, the trail begins to descend, winding through lush greenery and wide-open views into The Black Valley below, one of Ireland’s most isolated and hauntingly beautiful regions.
But here’s where things can get a bit tricky. So don’t shut off just yet.
You’ll soon reach a crossroads. There are signs pointing in a few directions, and this is where many tired hikers go wrong. So read this twice:
Do not follow the signs for “The Kerry Way.”
Instead, go left following the signs marked “TANGNEYS BOATING TOURS”
You’ll wind through quiet laneways with signs for Lord Brandon’s Cottage, slowly entering the edge of Killarney National Park. You’ll pass under mossy trees, along a babbling brook, and maybe even catch your first glimpse of a jaunting cart or hiker coming up the other way.
The path flattens out and you’ll cross one final little arched bridge, just before arriving at Lord Brandon’s Cottage a stone structure with picnic benches, snacks, TOILETS and boat captains waiting for your arrival.
Top Tip: Lord Brandon's Cottage is CASH ONLY!!!!
4. Lord Brandon’s Cottage & The Legendary Boat Ride to Ross Castle
When you finally arrive at Lord Brandon’s Cottage, you’ve officially completed the hiking portion of the Gap of Dunloe. Now it’s time to kick back, refuel, and soak in the achievement with a good feed and a great view.
Inside the cottage café, Sheila and her team run a tight (and tasty) ship. Grab a hot sandwich, fresh fruit, or something sweet—and whatever you do, don’t skip Sheila’s Irish coffee. It’s the kind of warm, whiskey-laced reward that feels like a rite of passage after a few hours of trail time.
As you relax on the wooden benches outside, legs stretched and lungs full of that clean Kerry air, keep an eye out for The O’Donoghue family specifically, Donal “Dux” and Donal Junior. Who run The Gap of Dunloe Traditional Boat Tours, and if you’re lucky enough to ride with them, you’re in for a once-in-a-lifetime Irish journey.
The O’Donoghues know this land and water like the back of their hand. Their stories about local legends, history, and growing up on these waters turn the trip into something more than just a ride. It becomes a living, breathing history lesson set to the rhythm of a wooden boat gliding through some of Ireland’s most stunning scenery.
Want more on the Boat Tour: Check out my post on boating through Killarney National Park.
From Upper Lake, you’ll drift past Derrycunnihy Woods, down into Muckross Lake, through the narrow, winding Long Range, and finally across Lough Leane, finishing at Ross Castle one of Killarney’s most iconic landmarks.
It’s the perfect end to a perfect Irish adventure.
Hiking in Ireland Trip Tips
- Bring waterproofs—Irish weather changes fast.
- Don’t forget to stop and look behind you. Soak up the view.
- Flip-flops or Tennis Shoes? Maybe not. Sturdy walking or hiking shoes are a must.
- Bring Cash.
- Book the Boat Tour ahead of time.
Final Thoughts
Walking the Gap of Dunloe is more than a hike it’s a step back in time through Ireland’s primeval heart. Whether you follow the lakes on foot, bike, or by boat, epic views and timeless folklore await. It’s a landscape shaped by giants but shared with dreamers. It will suprise you how few people do this amazing hike – be one of those few!
